Mushroom, orzo, lemon & pine nut stuffed courgettes

When is a courgette the perfect size for stuffing? And what should you stuff it with?

Courgettes are, I believe, best picked young.

20cm long is ideal in my view. But look away for more than five minutes and they will grow 10cm in the time it takes to boil the kettle. Fear not though, because these larger courgettes are ideal for stuffing.

The five ages of courgettes

In fact, I wonder if the life stages of a courgette are best described by its culinary uses: For cheffy deep-frying (ie: baby with flower attached); for raw salads (a crunchy, pert 10-15cm); for roasting, charring, stewing (the 20cm sweet spot); for stuffing (25-30cm and almost too big to be tasty); for the compost (30cm+).

The stuffing phase of life is perilously short, as described in the several pages given over to stuffing recipes in the courgette chapter of my cookbook, From the Veg Patch, where you will also find recipes for pepper, chorizo and butterbean stuffing, and lamb with feta stuffing:

There is a moment in the life of a courgette when it teeters on a precipice. A vibrant, rich youth, it looks out over a cliff and sees below impending old age: full of bitterness and lethargy, in whale-like and obstinate form – a marrow’s life. Left unchecked, a young courgette will launch itself into the abyss and descend to the bloated, leathery existence below. This is no fitting end for a courgette you have loved and nurtured for weeks.

No way for a handsome youngster to finish up. So do it a favour and pick it on the very day it contemplates that fall, because they grow so fast that by tomorrow it will be too late. And when you do, it will be perfect for stuffing: big enough to receive a generous filling, but youthful enough to remain innocently sweet and tender.

Courgettes stuffed with mushroom orzo, lemon & pine nuts

For those brief moments in a mild autumn when the courgette glut overlaps with the woodland mushrooms arriving, use wild mushrooms here. The rest of the time, chestnut mushrooms will do just fine. And don’t fear the allium quantities below. Roasted, onions and garlic become sweet and gentle, adding richness and depth to the filling. Finally, this is the absolute business when you need a make-ahead meal. Fill the courgette boats then leave them in the fridge until you are ready to whack them in the oven to crisp up and serve. Effortless.

Serves 2

• 2 courgettes (approx. 600g)

• 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

• 1 onion

• 3 garlic cloves, skin on